So, from the pictures above, you probably have an idea about this system, but I will do some further explaining.
First and foremost, I would like to thank Lonnie Mac, the original creator of the brutus 20 style system. Also, thanks to JKarp of Homebrewtalk, without some of his guidance this certainly would’ve been more difficult. My reasoning behind this system is that I have shocked myself too many times with car electronics to know I probably shouldn’t be messing with house electricity and I am tired of brewing outside all of the time.
- One Induction Stove or hot plate
- Mine is a Samsung Freestanding Induction Range. The main burner is 11″ big. The wattage is about 2800w on High, or 3700w on ‘boost’. Either is plenty to boil a 5gal batch. Depending on what burner you are using, you may be more limited on batch size. Induction allows both very efficient and incredibly accurate heating.
- One stainless steel magnetic pot
- Mine is a 9gal Bayou Classic. Note that this pot is around 12.5″ in diameter, which is .5″ more than the stove specs call for. Use at your own risk, but it has worked for me without issue.
- One mash tun
- Mine is a home depot 10gal water cooler. It has a bazooka tube on it and also has bulkheads for draining and for a thermometer. There have been many articles about making these coolers into MLTs, but the best and most informative I have seen is here. Note that I used 1/2″ pipe all the way through and used stainless steel, not brass. Either way works fine.
- One Pump
- I use a march 809 with the center inlet. It pumps a bit quicker than the side inlet ones.
- 3 tubes to move wort around
- I use 1/2″ Silicon Tubing. More expensive, but I like to be able to see in the tubes.
- Bulkheads, connections, fittings, hose clamps, etc.
- There are various ways to set this up, and I can help you if needed, but the focus of this article is on the induction piece. Jkarp’s countertop brutus 20 article is a great resource for the brutus 20 system.
A nice picture of how the system works step by step from the same article. I obviously ignored the cooling aspect, so unlike JKarp’s and the pictures, there is no chiller at all.
Here’s a quick step by step for my system:
- Take the entire brew’s water into the pot and heat it to strike temperature. This is usually around 160F and 7gal for normal sized brews. My induction stove will usually hold this temperature with the burner at ’2′.
- Drop the mash volume of water into the mash tun by opening the bulkhead on the pot and using the sightglass.
- Dump the grain into the mash tun.
- Let it sit around for however long your mash is.
- Heat the remaining water in the pot to boiling or near boiling, depending on recipe.
- Add remaining water and start recirculating from mash into pot. This is mashing out and vorlaufing at once. Continue for about 20 min for crystal clear wort.
- Stop draining pot and run pump until all wort is the boil kettle.
- Bring to boil (takes around 10min on ‘boost’).
- Add bittering hops in hop strainer bag. (The 5gal bag fits over the sides of the pot)
- Continue boiling and adding hops as needed. (At least 90min for no chill)
- Grab 1L or so of wort in flask for real wort starter and cool in an ice bath.
- Place the rest of the wort into a keg and let sit outside until cool enough to place in fermentation chamber.
- Pitch starter.
- Drink beer.
No chill methodology can be more read about here.
Anyway, that’s the basic rundown on my indoor, smaller system. It showcases how much more powerful these stoves are than typical kitchen stoves as you can easily do full boils on them.
Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.